Introduction

Modern equipment has invaded almost every industry or business, yet ranching operations still use horses on a daily basis for performing a variety of chores. True ranch horses aren’t always the prettiest, the fastest or have ideal conformation, however they are dependable, willing and versatile. They get this way from use. This is why ranch horses have become such popular purchases for the recreational rider.  The horses are solid reliable horses that are a joy to ride because they have been used and have a variety of experiences behind them. Those experiences make them accepting of all the new situations they will encounter. They are called a Using Horse.

To the best of our ability, we have replicated the ranching experience in our new Using Horse Program. We set up opportunities for you and your horse to become exposed to a variety of situations that will create a horse that is much like a ranch Using Horse. Your horse will learn to handle obstacles in the Ranch and Trails Encounters sessions. He (or she) will learn to travel out, stop well and become nimble in the Ranch Riding Sessions. And of course he will become comfortable with handling cattle in the Cattle Working Sessions. 

The Using Horse Program was started by a Morgan Horse Club in Northern Colorado the spring of 2005. Each month we hosted one day workshops that were not only fun, but proved that horses and riders of all backgrounds could get together, have a LOT of fun and learn a great deal.  The response was so positive that with a little convincing, the  2WF ( Western Working Family Morgan Horse  Club)  took the program under their wing to let riders across have the same experience. 

Your specialty or  chosen discipline will not prevent you from joining in. The Using Horse Program has a lot to offer every horse and rider, whether your background is show, dressage, sport horse, carriage  or trail horse. Each horse and rider takes into the program abilities that will allow them to excel in at least one of the three areas of development.  If your saddle is Western or your tack is English or Australian, you can enjoy the Using Horse Program just the same. At some point you may want to get a western saddle, but initially, it isn’t necessary.

Each workshop has three sessions. The sessions are:

• Ranch and Trail Encounters – Which provides experience dragging and carrying objects, negotiating obstacles and various terrains, learning to perform tasks and accept new situations comfortably.
• Ranch Riding – develops the ability to travel, at a speed appropriate for any job, whether it be riding a big circle or negotiating a small pen.  Your horse will learn to stop and turn as needed and to simply relax when the work is done.
• Cattle Working – This is the greatest experience you can give your horse.  Here, you will most likely learn from your horse!  Almost every horse loves to work cattle, and nearly all take to it immediately.  Through playing what we call Cattle Games, you and your horse will learn how to read a cow and put it where you want it, when you want.  You and your horse will become partners, and you can watch as your horse builds confidence and self esteem.   Our cattle games will help you build the skills to handle many situations that would be encountered in a ranching situation.  The initial introduction to cattle is done in a no stress manner that allows the horse to build confidence.  We team the inexperienced horse with a seasoned horse  until the  is ready to take over on his own. 

The Using Horse Program intends to replicate they way work is done on a ranch, not in a competitive arena. Work is done in a controlled fashion that is not stressful to livestock and that elicits good horsemanship skills.

You might be wondering if you and your horse are ready for this.  If you are willing to ride outside of an arena, you can participate in a Using Horse Workshop. Horse and rider are expected to grow with the program.  Initially every horse and rider enters in Level 1. How you progress depends on your participation and practice between sessions. 

Why is 2WF sponsoring the program information? Quite simply to allow our versatile Morgan horses to participate in activities they excel in and enjoy, and to promote and showcase our horses. If people can see our horses in action, they are more likely to buy a Horse. If we provide recreational opportunities for riders, they are even more likely to buy a horse from one of our breeders/trainers. The program is to be open to riders of all breeds without prejudice.

We found 60% of our riders were women between 35 and 60. About 30% were men the same ages, and the remainder miscellaneous ages and genders (Editors note:  I’m not sure what a miscellaneous gender is, but I’ll bet Linnea and Dr. Nelson can come up with a breeding program for them). The northern Colorado rider profile might differ from the profile in your area or the riders you attract to your workshops. This was not the profile that was anticipated at the inception of the program, but it does most typically reflect the general rider population percentages. 

Why a workshop as compared to a clinic?  Most clinics are two day affairs, and typically the cost is $200 and up. Our Using Horse workshops are one day and typically cost $30-$50 per rider.  It is MUCH easier to attract riders for a one day event than two. The reasonable price encourages riders to return month after month, building skills and improving horses. In the warmer climates workshops can run year around, in Colorado we found 8 or 9 months work pretty well.

The varieties of activities in the Using Horse Program are what really make the event fun and challenging. Following are Level 1 & 2 skills and expectations that are practiced during a workshop. We will leave Level 3 for a future issue.

Ranch and Trail Encounters Level 1

• Ground Manners
  • When leading the horse, trot a short distance.
  • Mount demonstrating steadiness when mounting.
• A bridge,  at the walk
• A jump not to exceed 12 inches, at the trot.
• Stepping over a log,  at a walk
• Back straight between two logs or standing panels set 5 feet apart.
• Walk over ground poles which may be set at angles similar to fallen trees.
• Pick up a saddle bag or sack and take along through a trail obstacle then return the object where found.
• Demonstrate the horse is beginning to understand opening gates.
• Drag a rope around an obstacle.  (May be held in hand or dallied)
• Open the mailbox and close.
• Side pass the horse between two logs set well apart.
• Walk between barrels or brush set about three feet apart.
• Stand quietly on a loose rein.

Ranch Riding Level 1

The objective is to develop a horse that is functional and a pleasure to ride while being used as a means of conveyance from one ranch horse task to another. The horse should be relaxed, quiet and show cadenced at all gaits. The horse should be ridden on a relatively loose rein with light contact and without requiring undue restraint. The reins may be held with two hands.  The goal is to work toward making transitions smoothly, timely and correctly.   

Horses should be practiced at the walk, jog, extended jog, lope, stop and reverse, walk, lope, jog, extended jog, stop and back. The horse should learn to be on the correct lead for the direction of travel. The stops should be decisive when asked or soft as well as collected into a stop when asked. 

Cattle Working Level 1

Level 1 cattle work should introduce the horse to cattle. Moving cattle in small groups or individually should be performed at a pace that is not overly hurried, but will still get the job done in an efficient manner. The horse should be allowed to demonstrate confidence around the cattle. The horse should not strike or kick at the cattle. A horse with pinned ears and reaching for cattle with the mouth is acceptable, as this is an indication the horse is trying to gain superiority over the cattle, but the horse should not be permitted to bite the cattle. When possible the Cattle Working session should also demonstrate the horse is beginning to understand the opening and closing of gates as they enter and exit the pens.

It is typical for a horse to advance in one area, but lag behind in another.  Some of our horses are well advanced in Ranch and Trail, but continue to work on Level 1 Ranch Riding.

In only a few months most of our riders have advanced to Level 2 work, which follows.

Ranch and Trail Encounters Level 2

1. Ground Manners

• Dismount
• Remove the bridle
• Re-bridle the horse.
• Pick up the front feet.
• Mount demonstrating steadiness when mounting.
• A bridge, at the walk or trot
• A jump not to exceed 18 inches,  at the trot or lope
• Stepping over a log, walk
• Ground poles which may be set at angles similar to jumbled logs and taken at a walk, or spaced appropriate for a trot or lope,
• A slicker which should be flopped over both shoulders, flanks and hips of the horse, 
• Back the horse through an L of logs or panels set four feet apart.
• Open and close a gate from horseback.
• Open the mailbox and display the contents.
• Side pass the horse over a log or long pole (eight to ten feet)
• Walk a clover leaf pattern between three barrels set about three feet apart.
• Drag a sack in a designated pattern and returned near the point of origin.  Turn the horse and drag the sack while backing.  (The rope may be held in hand or dallied.)
• Stand quietly
• Dismount from offside and ground tie the horse while returning the sack drag rope.
• Remount demonstrating steadiness

Ranch Riding Level 2

The objective is to measure the ability of the horse to transition upward and downward in the gaits smoothly, to perform at a medium fast rate. The ideal is for the horse to be well-broke, relaxed, quiet, soft and cadenced at all gaits. The horse should move freely, without excessive framing. The horse should be ridden on a relatively loose rein with light contact and without requiring undue restraint. The reins should be held in one hand. The horse should be responsive to the rider and make all required transitions smoothly, timely and correctly.

The rider should demonstrate the horse will:

• side pass in both directions (about 10 feet)
• turn 180 degrees on the forehand
• turn 180 degrees on the hocks

Horses should perform at the walk, jog, and lope in both directions. The walk should be energetic when requested. The horse should practice the walk, jog, extended jog, lope, stop and reverse, walk, lope a figure 8 with a simple lead change in the center, and extend the lope, stop and back. The lope should be on the correct lead for the direction of travel. The stop should be a solid decisive stop when asked, sliding is not a requirement. The horse should also demonstrate collected, smooth downward transitions. A pattern such as described might seem a little overwhelming at first, but is actually quite easy to remember. In this level of Ranch Riding the horse is becoming very responsive to the rider. We have seen dressage horses really enjoy and excel in Level 2 of Ranch Riding.

Cattle Working Level 2

Level 2 cattle work should demonstrate the horse has interest and desire to move cattle at a pace that would be commonly practiced in a ranching environment. The horse should demonstrate confidence and superiority over the cattle. The rider may use verbal cues, whistle and slapping of the hand or coiled rope on the thigh or similar methods to assist in the movement of the cattle.  During use of verbal cues the horse should not appear unduly alarmed. The horse may not be permitted to harm the cattle.  

In Level 2 Cattle Work the horse should be:

• Comfortable when surrounded by cattle.
• Locking on to a single cow as directed by the rider
• Following the cow with little direction from the rider
• Responding to the direction changes and speed of the cow with little aid from the rider.
• Confront a cow and change the direction of the cow.
• Direct the cow to a desired location and hold the cow from escape.

Level 2 cattle work is practiced through playing cattle games.  If you are on the internet, simply Google -Team Sorting, or Cow Catch for information on the games we play.

There are also Level 3 skills, but we will leave that for a future issue.

Does this sound like fun?  2WF encourages YOU to start a Using Horse Program in your area.  We have developed a brochure that details how to get workshops started.  The brochure also provides ideas on how to find riders, cattle, venues and more, and it is free.   We also provide an electronic version of a promotional brochure that you can customize with your contact information, then you simply print or photocopy, fold and place in tack shops, feed supply stores etc.  Getting going is easier than you might think.  We will email the starter kit at no charge so you can get started.  We think the Using Horse Program has a lot of potential for improving and promoting our horses as well as having a lot of fun.

Part 2

Ranch and Trail Encounters should be designed to allow a horse to experience some of the same elements they will be encountering in a ranching environment or out on the trail.  As with any training situation it is best to provide a controlled environment to ensure the desired outcome. 

SAFETY FIRST!!  This seems to be a tired old statement but an accident will take the fun out of any equestrian experience.  We give a little safety talk before each workshop.  It is short, “if you don’t feel comfortable, don’t do it or ask for assistance”    If I or another rider sees a horse that looks ready to blow, we will speak up.  There are some green riders on green horses who don’t know their horse is beyond their comfort zone so help them out.  We haven’t had anyone hurt in a workshop and we plan to keep it that way.  Take the energy out of your horse before starting these activities.  This is so basic but is overlooked a lot.   Approach these activities after an energetic arena or trail ride.  A horse fresh saddled will always have more reaction than one that has been ridden down.  Also ropes and horses can be a really dangerous combination, so take it really slow and easy till your horse is comfortable working with ropes.  I recommend the use of a lariat cut in half at first as handling the reins while carrying a coiled rope in hand with a novice horse and rider can get a little dicey.

CARRYING OBJECTS   Most horses don’t really have much of an issue with carrying things. The less of a deal the rider makes of it the better off both the horse and rider are, but it is best not to surprise the horse either.  With real green broke or horses in training this is best approached in halter and from the ground, the progress to the saddle.  In our Using Horse Workshops, our Level 1 (see the spring 2006 Waddie for info on the different levels) horses are in the big round pen with a variety of objects hanging from the rail.  We ask each rider if they have picked up and carried objects before, and usually they have.  But for those who have never carried so much as a halter, we start with the basics.   This process is used for each object we introduce. We begin with a soft five foot cotton rope hanging from the rail.  Ride up, pick it up and rub the horse on the shoulder, set it back and ride away.  Repeat on the other side.  Then repeat rubbing the horse on the shoulder and hip on both sides.  Then pick it up, hang it on the horn and ride down the rail a little way and set it back down, repeating on both sides.  Now carry the object around the arena.  We prefer to hang the rope on the saddle horn as it frees up both hands of the rider and they can manage to get the horse through any little issues better this way.  We then advance to a soft towel, a soft bag, a coiled lariat (see photo) and then a slicker.  The progression is towards larger objects and those that make some noise.  

MENTORING   We have had a few horses (hardly ever a Morgan!) really troubled by one object or another, so the ground work is performed, then the following mentoring method is used.  The mentor horse and rider seems to provide confidence.   The mentor horse will be ridden in the round pen carrying the object, lets say a slicker in hand.  Have the troubled horse following the slicker; move him up next to it while the mentoring rider does the de-sensitizing by rubbing the slicker on the shoulder.  The rider of the troubled horse needs to provide confidence and is controlled by holding him with the outside rein and leg.  When that goes ok have the mentor ride away from the troubled horse, keep the slicker on the mentor.   Have the troubled horse ride up to the object again.  Pretty soon he is ready for a hand-off; pass the slicker back and forth a couple times.   Keep the mentor there and hand it back, again repeating from both sides.  After this the horse should be ready to ride to the rail and leave the slicker behind, then ride back and pick the slicker up on his own.  Remember to perform these actions on both sides of the horse; most horses need to learn everything from both sides.

DRAGGING OBJECTS   Take an old worn out lariat and cut it in half, you can get one at most tack shops for about $5.00.   Ask for used soft heading ropes and buy two.  A lariat is much better than any other rope as it won’t typically get wrapped around a horse’s leg.  The best way to approach dragging things is in the round pen with the mentor horse dragging the rope.  Most horses are really curious about following something being dragged from the ground, so follow the rope for a while, then ride up next to the rope end, then move forward till your knee is next to the mentor rider.   Do this on both sides. When your horse is comfortable do some figure eights so the rope comes into view from both eyes.   Then do the hand off thing like you did when carrying objects.  If he is a little troubled it is best to ride on through, as it is pretty common for them to be a little surprised when the rope contacts their hocks and comes into view for the first time.  If he really blows, safety up and drop the rope, he needs more time and you will make more progress in the saddle than in a hospital.   If you are doing this at home and don’t have a mentor horse then approach this pretty much the same as with carrying objects, start small and have the rope end hanging on the round pen rail,  pick it up and move forward a few feet.  Repeat on both sides till he is comfortable.  Then ride toward the center of the round pen and make the figure eights so the rope comes into view and contacts the hocks.   Most horses are really comfortable about dragging things when the introduction isn’t startling.

When your horses are comfortable dragging the rope (this might me the same day or weeks later), attach a soft bag or towel to the end of the rope and repeat this process.  Don’t put enough weight in the bag that it cannot be held in the hand during these introductory sessions.  It’s best to be able to drop the rope if necessary until the horse is pretty comfortable.   Keep you hand low so the rope contacts the hip.

Now it is time to learn to steer your horse and position the bag where you want it.  This is kind of like driving your horse trailer rig.  The bag is going to track way inside and you need to plan your route better with wider sweeping corners.  Place two objects in the big round pen or arena, and practice your figure 8 pattern riding around the objects.

LOG DRAGGING   The prerequisite is your horse is entirely comfortable with dragging the bag by now.  Hang one of your half length ropes attached to a small log, one that you can drag with your hand and it won’t tear you out of the saddle.  I hang mine from a stand and ride up to it, take the rope in my right hand and ride in a circle, dragging the log on the inside.  Keep you hand low enough that the rope stays on the horses’ hip when you change directions.   Do the figure 8’s.  There is going to be more pressure on the rope than before, so expect a little more reaction.  When he is comfortable, dally (don’t tie) the rope to the saddle horn and continue with your figure 8’s practice.  You can now move on to dragging a hay bale or something with more weight where he will feel the pull more on the saddle.  When his is ready, teach him to face up to the object and keep some tension on the rope.  “Pop” your dallys when there is a little tension on the rope and he will become accustomed to more action and hubbub up in the saddle. 

Your horse can really gain a sense of purpose through carrying and dragging things.  It is good for their minds and can keep them from blowing up when they are surprised by an object suddenly appearing behind them.  It should be a basic part of training for any horse.  As amazing as it seems I’ve seen riders carrying a slicker on their horse, but they have never worn it.  Out on the trail in a thunderstorm isn’t the time to be training your horse!   Get started with these exercises and you will be on your way to a better “Using Horse”.  Till next time, keep a leg on each side.